Friday, August 29, 2008

Tech Pack Design and Audit - Apparel Pri-Production Process

Tech Pack Review – Apparel Development Services

In the Field of Apparel Design and Techpack Development miner mistakes can create big loss. If the Instruction are given properly in the garment spec sheet outcome would come right and the time and money expenses would come out as per the garment costing and time line of delivery.But if there is any mistake in the tech pack and is being ignored during the Tech Pack Review then the problems mount to a big monitory loss at the time of sample development and production. and Small things can be very dangerous and lead to a lot of expenses if the Tech Packs are not properly reviewed and made sure that everything is finally done in the right way and the specifications in the spec sheet is given rightly. Tech Pack Review is equally important and any technical designer should give his 100% doing so.
 Clothing Manufacturer

Tech Pack contains many information and instructions which are followed without having any second thought by the factories. For the Factories this is a contract and they follow techpack 100% unless they have some instruction given in between the process of sample development. It is also not advisable to change tech pack once it has gone from the client to factory unless there is a major issue which is related to production feasibility or impossible job given to the factory in the tech pack as an instruction. Usually when the sample is developed the detailing given on the tech packs are followed and based on the tech pack the trims , Prints , embroidery , Tags and labels and other trims are being developed . During this time the final proto is prepared and dies are prepared , print screens are developed , Embroidery cads are prepared and many major parts are being developed for a Garment Sample. This is a costly affaire and the factory soends a lot of money for the development of these things.

Changing those dies, and other cads and other things would cost even double and things can be avoided by doing Tech Pack Review. In Fact this is the responsibility of both brand owner or Linesheet designer and Technical Designer to take utmost concentration and focus on reviewing the Tech Pack and make sure before it goes to the factory, things are perfect to the optimum level.

I can give one example which I have experienced during the development and garment production process. There was a miner change in the website address of one of my client and which had just a high pen with needed to be added to the website which is missed. This looks so small on the surface level but when it comes to the practical field of Sample Development it is quite big and is a costly process to rectify the whole thing all over again.. Similarly if there is a small mistake on garment fit measurement the garment shape comes out to be completely different and at times the whole shipment of the garment gets rejected. So it is important that the Tech Packs are reviewed as many times as possible before it reaches the apparel production unit.

Tech Pack Audit is very essential and inevitable for a new clothing brand since they have limited resources to make their garment label stand and run in the market so those who are doing the New Linesheet and having less experience should go to an well equipped and experienced Technical Designer or a reputed design studio. There are many times the Technical Designers provide many information which are not required by garment units and because of that the units gets confused and make the product wrong. So the information that is required should be given to them and in a clear way so that they should feel comfortable developing the product. Any Changes on the techpcaks can be done easily and with lesser cost but if the garments are produced and produced with the wrong specifications cannot be reverted and would lead to a big loss to the apparel brand.

When Doing Apparel Production Planning and Scheduling things one by one is very important for two reasons. One - this saves time and there by Cost of Production and secondly the the quality of the garments goes up to the next level and there by the rejection rate goes down considerably. Properties of Raw Materials that affect the final product.In this the raw materials are directly related to the final product of the Production order. However there is one important factor is human factor which is equally important and can not be ignored.Garment pre-production activities are planned and executed by people, not computer programs, yet the critical path method ignores this human factor.Apparel Production process is complex and the interesting part is there are certain process which can not be executed by computer and can not fit in to CPM. To be specific the Pre- Production Activities like Tech Pack Designs , Sample Development Garment Pattern Design , Print and embroidery designs etc.

So in order to optimize the Garment Production process at best we can schedule some process in the following way.


To be continued......

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Garment Production - Apparel Manufacturing

Garment Manufacturing - Steps That Leads you to Success

Build your Hottest selling Apparel Brand in Few Easy Steps with Urban Purple

You can reduce the cost of garment manufacturing up to 20% by following the process. The best way to approach a clothing manufacturer is with a tech pack. You must prepare apparel design and technical specification for styles before approaching manufacturer. Tech pack helps clothing manufacturer process the production in a systematic way. Thereby the apparel production process becomes much easier and efficient. So, garment manufacturer saves time and money that helps to reduce the cost of production.  When you are producing smaller quantity it might reduce almost $1- $2 lesser per piece of garment. This amount goes up and down depending on your order quantity. 


Tech pack for a style is the center of apparel sample development and apparel production. This drives and shows a way to every party involved in apparel production life cycle. This drives the activities of pattern maker, sampling department and production unit. This also includes the supporting vendors like the print unit, embroidery unit and so on. Tech pack also serves as a parameter to access the quality and track the design, measurement fit. Once tech pack is finalized and followed on production floor, pics comes out perfect. 


Here are few reasons why a perfect tech pack results successful apparel production.



Reduced sample alteration process would save money when it comes to all processing that involved in sample development and sample shipping. Normally one sample shipment eats out around $20 – $50. So this way if you have a couple of alterations for each style that you produce you are going to lose not less than $100. Moreover, production may get delayed.

Usually, Manufacturer produces the garments as per his convenience and cost effectiveness if he does not have proper instruction. You may not get what you wanted to achieve in your style. Moreover, production rejection ratio may go up. When you don’t have a Garment Tech Pack you don’t know what goes in the garment. So you will not have any idea of the cost. Garment Manufacturers take the cost of a single piece of thread.

Most importantly, it gives straight and clear instructions to garment manufacturing units to produce the garment in the manner which is mentioned on the tech pack. So it becomes a contract between you and the garment manufacturer. This is a quite useful tool for maximizing your profit and reduces unpleasant surprises. Even professional garment manufacturing units do not entertain clients who want to go ahead with apparel production without proper clothing tech packs.

Minimum Order Quantity has always been an issue for a start-up clothing line. Most garment manufacturers do not show any interest in the apparel production which is below 500 pcs / style. No matter how small the unit is the MOQ always goes beyond 500 PCS. The Reason is even if they keep a margin of $2 - $5 for 50 or hundred pics they hardly make 1 tailors salary. But the complete process of work takes around 7 to 8 days including the sample development and production put together.

The solution for this is when you start your brand keep your designs simple and go with the generic styles. Yet keep your uniqueness in it. If you are not sure, take the help of a technical clothing designer. Also, Shuffle your styles colors with each other and use the same fabric/print/embroidery etc in a maximum number of styles as possible with little variation in colors. This way you can minimize development cost and that ultimately affect your production costing as well. 

If you are still not sure? Write to us in detail about your brand idea and one of our technical clothing designers would get back to us with suggestion and solution. Also if you want to go ahead with Technical Design Service from us Let us know. We can give a quote once we see your styles. You can also avail our garment manufacturing unit for your apparel production provided your order meets the bare minimum order quantity. Please use our Contact form for your queries with your detailed contact details so that we can reach.


Monday, August 25, 2008

Preparing Bills of Material in Tech Pack

What is a typical cost per unit to manufacture clothing? Every apparel brand tries to figure out this first before even starting the design process. But, it’s not easy but sometimes impossible to get the exact cost of production by seeing a sketch. This is why we have Bills of Materials. So what is a Bills of Material? Bills of Material are a list of raw materials, components, needed to produce the end product. It is for all intents and purposes a comprehensive list of items to create a final end product. A BOM explains what to buy, how to buy and where to buy, and includes instructions for how to process the product.

Investment is always an issue for a start-up apparel brand. So it is imperative that new startup brand tries to know the cost starting from design till production. So planning is quite required before actually going into production. You cannot get the cost of a garment by having a sketch. You need complete tech pack and a spec sheet that will give clarity on materials and process that goes on a style. So for an understanding of your collection design, you must get the tech pack created. Once you get the tech pack you can prepare the list of materials in the form of BOM and thereby get the costing. So for getting a costing Tech Packs are important.

When you are designing and producing a garment it’s definitely not for charity. You are going to sell them and you want some profit from each garment that you are going to sale. When you design your clothes you are more of creative and less concerned about cost. Major apparel brand does a reverse engineering before planning the collection. They decide the price and how much cost they want to incur and start from cost and start a collection. New brands stop the idea because of increase in the cost. Their botheration starts when they realize the design created are costly to produce. So if you are not a designer but want to explore your creative instinct its good. But, take the advice and guidance of a technical clothing designer. If you believe in your creative instinct and business sense you will succeed. Do a proper planning and take the guidance.



Technical clothing designer must include BOM along with tech packs. So that it gives the buyer a checklist of materials needed to develop sample and produce a garment. Buyers then can plan their budget for apparel production. Sample development and apparel production can become much smoother with BOM.

When you are designing and producing a garment, you look forward to some commercial value. You are going to sell them and you want some profit from each garment that you are going to sale. So keeping a watch on your budget becomes more and more important. BOM helps you managing your collection design and production and streamlines your collection. If you are not a designer but want to explore your creative instinct its good. But, take the advice and guidance of a tech pack designer. If you believe in your creative instinct and business sense you will succeed. Do a proper planning and take the guidance from apparel industry expert. The initial cost will definitely give you better results.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Fabric and Its Detailing in Tech Pack Design

Fabric is the main part of any apparel style and fabric details in a tech pack are important. You can not move forward in the process if you don't have fabric details in an apparel tech pack. So technical designer must mention fabric description in detail in a tech pack.  Fabric detailing includes color, blend, composition and yarn count. It also includes the wash care details required for maintaining the garment. In the same way, brands need to explain in a broad way what type of garments they want. This gives a fair idea about the fabric suitable for the styles that the client wants. Coordination between designer and client becomes vital in the design phase itself. This way technical designer gives proper fabric description that best suits the style.

Fabric description in a tech pack consists of 4 different aspects. The composition, blend, texture, and color of the fabric. If we discuss the fabrics this would be a huge topic which needs a detailed research. So,  it would be good to give a brief about fabric and its testing characteristics.

  • GSM Testing:  GSM reflects the weight and thickness of fabric. It is usually calculated for knitwear fabric. We get Grams Per Squire Meter ( GSM ) by cutting the fabric into an even round shape in 11.2 CM. Then we measure the weight of that piece of cloth.
  • Yarn Count: It refers to the thickness of the yarn and is calculated by its mass per unit length. It is measured by its weight per kilometer of yarn. Its unit of measurement is "tex".Yarn manufactured by the compact spinning system compared with classical yarn is characterized by better smoothness, higher lustre, abrasion fastness better by 40-50%, Hairiness lower by 20-30%, as measured with the Uster apparatus, hairiness lower by 60%, as measured with the Zweigle apparatus, tenacity and elongation at break higher by 8-15%, and smaller mass irregularity.
  • Fabric Composition: We refer fabric composition to the blend of yarns in the weaving of a fabric. It could be 100% cotton or blend of Cotton/polyester or any other combination. 
  • Color: We start designing keeping color in mind for a particular style. We mention color as per the parameter from Pantone. The color is usually taken from Pantone Shades for fashion. You can get more information about this from pantone.com.
We at Urban Purple offer end to end service that a brand needs to build and grow its business. Our service stream starts from clothing design to shipping and marketing. We support on apparel design, tech pack design, sample development and apparel production.  To Get in touch with us please fill the form below with your clothing line need detailing. We will get in touch with you in next 24 hours. Check us our Facebook Page to get the visuals of our sample development unit and studio.