Sunday, August 24, 2008

Fabric and Its Detailing in Tech Pack Design

Fabric is the main part of any apparel style and fabric details in a tech pack are important. You can not move forward in the process if you don't have fabric details in an apparel tech pack. So technical designer must mention fabric description in detail in a tech pack.  Fabric detailing includes color, blend, composition and yarn count. It also includes the wash care details required for maintaining the garment. In the same way, brands need to explain in a broad way what type of garments they want. This gives a fair idea about the fabric suitable for the styles that the client wants. Coordination between designer and client becomes vital in the design phase itself. This way technical designer gives proper fabric description that best suits the style.

Fabric description in a tech pack consists of 4 different aspects. The composition, blend, texture, and color of the fabric. If we discuss the fabrics this would be a huge topic which needs a detailed research. So,  it would be good to give a brief about fabric and its testing characteristics.

  • GSM Testing:  GSM reflects the weight and thickness of fabric. It is usually calculated for knitwear fabric. We get Grams Per Squire Meter ( GSM ) by cutting the fabric into an even round shape in 11.2 CM. Then we measure the weight of that piece of cloth.
  • Yarn Count: It refers to the thickness of the yarn and is calculated by its mass per unit length. It is measured by its weight per kilometer of yarn. Its unit of measurement is "tex".Yarn manufactured by the compact spinning system compared with classical yarn is characterized by better smoothness, higher lustre, abrasion fastness better by 40-50%, Hairiness lower by 20-30%, as measured with the Uster apparatus, hairiness lower by 60%, as measured with the Zweigle apparatus, tenacity and elongation at break higher by 8-15%, and smaller mass irregularity.
  • Fabric Composition: We refer fabric composition to the blend of yarns in the weaving of a fabric. It could be 100% cotton or blend of Cotton/polyester or any other combination. 
  • Color: We start designing keeping color in mind for a particular style. We mention color as per the parameter from Pantone. The color is usually taken from Pantone Shades for fashion. You can get more information about this from
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